Planting at the correct distance provides the plant with a comfortable environment for a good harvest. Novice gardeners plant a vegetable crop under a ruler, experienced ones - by eye. Pepper is a capricious culture, you should follow some recommendations for its cultivation. In this review, we will consider how to plant seedlings of this vegetable correctly and at what distance.
Pepper seedlings are a whimsical culture, so it is very important not to overlook important points. By the time of planting on the bed, the seedlings should have 8-10 leaves. Allowed with the formed buds, when the pepper blooms, it cannot be transplanted. This is due to the fact that during the flowering period it will be difficult for the plant to take root in a new place.
The flowers may fall off, but the seedlings will not be accepted. There are also times when you need to start planting and when it's too late. These times may vary depending on the region. For planting in open beds, the average temperature should be 15-18 ° C warm.
It is necessary to wait for the threat of spring frosts to pass, otherwise, due to the low soil temperature, the plant will develop poorly. The likelihood of developing diseases will increase. Seedlings of bell and bitter peppers are planted at the end of May. In order not to be afraid of night frosts, be sure to cover with a film or diaper.
Better to be late than rush, night frosts can ruin the entire future harvest.
Gardeners often ask the question, how many peppers to plant in the hole? It is profitable to plant 2-3 pieces, this technique is practiced by many gardeners. Having tried this method once, they usually stop at it. The paired method gives good yields. The pair-to-one-hole planting method has many advantages:
When growing seedlings in pairs, one must take into account the fact that growth in one root can give small fruits. If two different varieties grow side by side, mutually pollinating, hybrids may turn out. Both options have their advantages. Gardeners make decisions for personal reasons.
Any plant in the garden requires nutritious soil, it must contain a sufficient amount of humus. How to understand whether home soil is suitable in the garden and where to plant? You need to take the land from the garden in your hand. If it is loose and crumbly, then the plant will be comfortable. Preparatory work includes the following steps:
On loam and acidic soil, a good harvest will not grow, since the roots need moisture and air.
In order for the plant to feed from the root, it is best to put a vegetable mixture inside each hole. It is prepared from ash, sawdust and organic fertilizers (manure, bird droppings). The manure is taken in the autumn. It is necessary that he was lying down and frozen several times. If you take fresh fertilizer, it can burn the seedlings. It is enough to add one vegetable mixture inside the hole.
Some simply add ammonium nitrate to the root. Experienced gardeners, to scare away the bear from the root, they lay broken eggs. In addition to the protective function, the shell nourishes the bushes with calcium. So that the roots do not rot, if the soil is not loose, peat or humus is poured.
Water the mixture before adding it to the well. If you do this earlier, nutrients can go deep underground.
The distance between the rows should be 50-60 cm for low-growing varieties, and about 70 cm for bulky pepper bushes. Between bushes 25-30 cm. If planted densely, the plant will not receive the right amount of light. It will be difficult to care for the bushes, it will be difficult to loosen the soil and fertilize.
Planting at the right distance will ensure good yields and ease of maintenance.
From the moment of planting, careful care is required, when the bushes take root, it will be easier. If a bear eats up the bushes, you need to fight it. Plant new ones in place of the missing bushes. In the future, leaving consists of the following points:
The basic care and maintenance of the garden requires a certain skill that comes over the years. Studying useful recommendations, you can even a novice gardener grow this crop from a seed and collect a good harvest from the garden.
A good result depends on planting seedlings, if everything is done correctly, there will be no problems with growing.
Without considering the importance of the distance between rows and plants, it is impossible to achieve rich yields. Do not plant too close. The densely planted bushes will stretch upward. Sparsely planted peppers, both hot and sweet, are adversely affected by drought. In everything, the planting distances existing among gardeners must be respected.
Russian gardeners grow sweet and bitter peppers mainly in seedlings, since it has a number of advantages. But in this seemingly simple matter there are many nuances. Learn how to properly plant peppers in the ground with seedlings, because the development of plants and, ultimately, the volume of the crop that the vegetable grower will receive depends on this. Learn about the rules for preparing the site, soil and seedlings, as well as caring for it in the first time after transplanting.
How far should bell peppers be planted from each other?
Pepper bushes do not grow tall and bulky. Their root system is the same in width - 20-25 cm in diameter. Many gardeners do not have as much land as they would like and they plant pepper at a distance of 25 - 30 cm from each other. We also plant this way and are delighted with the harvest. Sometimes we don't even know what to do with it, we collect so much. True, we make the distance between the rows about 1 meter - this way it is more convenient to process plants and harvest.
Bell pepper is a very sociable, if I may say so, culture that loves its neighbors. Therefore, bell peppers are never planted at a great distance. I know that many vegetable growers generally plant two bushes in one hole. In our rows, bell peppers are planted close to each other - rarely when the distance between plants exceeds forty centimeters. And the aisles are made small - up to forty centimeters as well.
We plant the peppers in the garden in four rows, quite close to each other. But so that our access to each bush is not difficult. At the same time, there is enough sun for the bushes, even in abundance. The roots do not interfere with each other. And the crowns grow well, give a large harvest and support the peppers of neighboring bushes, helping each other. And the pepper grows great at the same time and gives excellent yields!
The first rule for distributing roses on the site is the principle of a well-ventilated space. Mature bushes should not form a solid wall, as this leads to the appearance of fungal diseases.
The optimal distance between creeping and slowly growing bushes is 60 cm. In total, no more than 3 bushes can be left per 1 m² of plantings.
Important! If the length of the shoots can exceed 1 m, then the bushes should be grown at a distance of 100 cm.
If we are talking about a slow-growing climbing variety, then for it the optimal distance between the bushes will be 2 m. Fast-growing tall varieties are planted 3 m from each other. To decorate a pergola or gazebo, 1 bush is enough. Over time, it will braid the entire support.
This type of shrub can be used to form a hedge. To do this, the distance between the rose bushes during planting must be kept 80 cm or more. For a single planting, you need to plant the bushes 3 m apart.
Slow-growing varieties are planted in spring with an interval of 40 cm. There are a maximum of 6 plants per 1 m² of planting. To grow tall varieties, they are planted at a distance of 60 cm, then there will be up to 3 bushes per 1 m².
In ordinary plantings, the distance between the bushes is 3 m. For large varieties of cascading roses, the distance is increased to 5 m. The fact is that standard roses look best in a single planting.
There is no universal rule to help you figure out how far to plant roses. It all depends on the size of the bush and the characteristics of caring for it.
Growing roses on supports
It often happens that a rose bush grows from a seedling much larger than expected. Therefore, it is advisable to leave more free space. There should be enough space to bend the bush to the ground and cover it for the winter. In other words, the distance between the rose bushes should be appropriate for their height.
Important! If the roses become too crowded, the bushes need to be planted further away.
The tightness will destroy any plants, so they must be planted at a sufficient distance from each other. The length of these spaces can vary depending on the size of the bush and the growth rate of its branches.
The length of the side shoots and the size of the leaves affect the placement in rows and the distances between them. The following universal rule works: the larger the plant, the larger its feeding area.
One-line (row) or two-line (tape) planting schemes are used. If a single line is used, then the seeds or seedlings are placed in a row at intervals of at least 25 cm. 90–100 cm are left between adjacent rows. For parthenocarpic hybrids, the interval can be reduced to 70–80 cm.
When using the two-line method, "ribbons" are created from two parallel rows of cucumbers. The interval between plants is 40 cm. The distance between two adjacent "ribbons" is from 100 to 140 cm.
With a staggered arrangement of cucumbers, holes are dug at a distance of 60–70 cm from each other, placing the grooves in accordance with the name.
The cucumber bed is made slightly raised by adding a layer of humus 2-3 cm thick. When using this growing method, you can plant seedlings in a checkerboard pattern, leaving an interval of 40 cm between plants, and 20 cm between adjacent rows.
To tie up long shoots of cucumbers, pillars are installed, trellises are pulled on them. Ropes are tied to them, along which the plants will climb up - to the light and fresh air. Cucumbers are tied up carefully so as not to break fragile leaves and shoots.
A convenient and practical method of growing has recently become widespread. Barrels are prepared for planting in the fall: they are filled with a layer of branches, fallen leaves, garden soil, rotted compost.
Holes are made in the soil and cucumber seeds are sown in a circle - 12 or more per barrel. Or, seedlings are planted to speed up the appearance of the crop. An alternative is to place the cucumbers in tall boxes or in bags of substrate.
This method is not suitable if the balcony faces north. The plants will not have enough lighting for flowering and fruiting. Sow on seedlings in cassettes. They are transplanted into balcony containers for growing flowers or into old pots, buckets.
A drainage layer of fine expanded clay or foam is poured at the bottom. Fill containers with all-purpose vegetable primer, available from your local hardware store or flower shop. Seeds are sown in the center of the container, stepping back from its walls at least 15 cm.The distance between the holes is from 20 to 30 cm.
Gardeners are increasingly using ridges that rise above the soil level. A box is made from available lumber. At the bottom of the shallow "tank" drainage from the sand is constructed. Sawdust and rotted manure are poured on top. The top layer is garden soil mixed with compost. The total height of such a raised bed is from 25 to 35 cm, width is 100 cm.
This is the preferred planting pattern for strong growing hybrids. All bushes are well lit and do not interfere with each other. Planting density in a row can be slightly varied depending on the length of the row. The interval is from 20 to 40 cm. Gaps of at least 70 cm are left between the rows so that there is free access to each plant.
The two-way scheme is also often used indoors, as well as the single-row one. The differences are as follows: the interval between plants in one "line" is 35–40 cm. Make 2 rows at a distance of 45–60 cm from each other. At a distance of 80 cm, another such "tape" of two rows is planted.
The use of this planting scheme in a greenhouse is advisable for several reasons. The illumination and aeration of plants are improved, which is important for the prevention of infection with fungal diseases. Seedlings are planted in two rows in a checkerboard pattern. Between individual bushes in a row, an interval of 35 cm is left, between rows - from 40 to 50 cm.
This is a convenient way to grow cucumbers in greenhouses and outdoors. The essence of the method is that seeds are sown or seedlings are planted along the edge of a circle with a diameter of 1.5–2 m. The distance between individual plants is from 30 to 40 cm.
A peg or metal bracket is hammered next to each bush. A twine is tied, which is fixed on a high, high support in the center of the circle. It can be a metal or plastic pipe, a sturdy wooden stick. You can replace the twine for each plant with twigs, wire.
Pepper is one of the vegetable crops that contain a lot of useful vitamins.
The culture belongs to the genus Solanaceae. In our growing conditions, pepper is an annual plant.
Agrotechnical measures for pepper are a little easier than for tomatoes, since it does not need to be pinned.
The plant is grown for a variety of culinary purposes and more.
The process of growing this crop is a very creative process. And you need to do this business only at a time when you are in a great mood. And with such a mood, you will get not only good seedlings, but also a high yield.
This article will tell you about all the aspects of crop cultivation.
There are biological and morphological characteristics of pepper that you need to know. We will talk about them below.
What refers to morphological characteristics:
What are biological features:
The soil for planting peppers should be both fertile and moist.
All the nuances of different soils:
To prepare the soil for planting pepper, fertilizers are applied to it. For one square meter, you need to add: one glass of wood ash superphosphate, one tablespoon of potassium sulfate and one teaspoon of urea.
After adding all the components the soil needs to be dug, while making the beds thirty centimeters high. Further, the leveled surface of the earth is watered with a solution of water and mullein (in the amount of half a liter per bucket of water) or a solution of sodium humate (at the rate of one tablespoon per bucket of water).
About four liters of mortar are consumed per square meter of land. After the measures taken, the soil is ready for planting pepper.
There are the following pepper varieties: sweet and spicy. Sweet varieties include: "Gladiator", "Litsedei", "Victoria", "Ermak", "Zaznayka" and many others. Spicy varieties include: "Chile", "Ukrainian bitter", "Vietnamese bouquet" and others.
Pepper seedlings are very fond of organic fertilizers. Feeding with such fertilizers can be done every ten days.
The spiked seedlings love foliar feeding. Fertilizer Kemira Kombi is suitable for this, it contains a lot of microelements. With a diluted fertilizer solution, you need to spray the leaves of the plant both from above and below. This event should be carried out in the early morning, before the sun's rays appear.
Foliar feeding of the plant should be alternated with watering the culture.
When a yellowish color appears on the leaves, this indicates a lack of nitrogen.
We must not forget water the culture and make sure that there is no waterlogging or drainage of the soil. Rare watering leads to leaf fall and plant wilting. And excessive watering leads to poor performance of the root system of the plant.
It is also interesting to read about the best varieties of sweet peppers
Before planting, you must first harden the culture, this is done fourteen days before planting the pepper in the ground. Hardening begins with a positive temperature of 15 degrees, and very slowly lower it, but not less than + 11 ° C.
Planting pepper is best done in the evening. It is necessary to observe a distance between rows of about 65 cm and between seedlings 40 cm.And you can also use the square-nesting method (60x60 cm or 70x70 cm) and plant two or three plants in one hole.
To keep the plant free of floors, it is necessary when planting set pegs (during the growth period, it is better not to install the pegs, since you can harm the root system of the plant) for which in the future the bush will be tied up.
After planting, the pepper takes root very slowly, in order to promote better air circulation in the soil, you need to gently loosen the soil around the pepper.
For peppers, the growing season is on average a little over three months, so the preparation of pepper seeds begins in January. The timing of planting a crop mainly depends on how the plant will take root in the open field. In warm areas, planting pepper seeds is carried out until mid-March, and for the middle lane, planting is carried out in February. And they are planted in the ground at the end of May.
In the third decade of May or early July, pepper seedlings are already planted in the prepared beds.
The distance between the rows should be about 60 cm, and the distance between the seedlings should be 40 cm.
And you can also use the square-nesting method (60x60 cm or 70x70 cm) and plant two or three plants in one hole.
If you are planting several varieties of pepper, then they need to be planted as far as possible between them, since the crops are pollinated.
In the fight against all sorts of diseases and pests (for example: white rot, black leg, Colorado potato beetle, various slugs), folk remedies can help.
Many crops that grow nearby can also take care of their neighboring growing crops, as well as protect them from various diseases and pests.
You can also water the plant with various solutions every fourteen days for preventive purposes.
Caring for the crop consists in properly moistening the soil, tying up the plant, weeding and feeding the plant.
Watering peppers outdoors is very important to the crop. The ground must be constantly moist. If the soil is dry, the plant may not develop well. If there are small atmospheric plantings, then the watering of the crop should be reduced, and if the precipitation is constant, then the watering should be stopped altogether.
The optimal time of day for watering is morning, if the night was cold, and if the night was warm, then you can water both day and evening. In this case, water is used not cold, but warm.
Heavy soils are moistened in an amount of half a liter per bush, and light soils are watered at the rate of a liter per bush. Watering is best done in loosened soil on one day on one side, and on the other day on the other. This method of watering does not allow a dense bark to form around the plant.
Top dressing cultures are carried out in three stages:
Loosening the soil under the crop should be done with the utmost care. The roots of the crop are located very close to the surface, so the depth of loosening must be monitored.